I have always loved that expression, and for me, no designer excels at proving it better than Olivier Theyskens for Rochas. Last fall, his models were either ethereal femmes in waterlily gowns, their hair braided into subtle crowns, or garçonnes in perfect pantsuits, carrying small, lacquered violin cases.
This fall, the violin cases were replaced with lacquered ladders, and the theme of Victorian water gardens with Victorian chimney sweeps. The models wore woven silk ladder headbands and the clothing was every shade of soot and smoke. Even the runway was decorated with vertically strung black thread. The best part though, were the crows. Two of the gowns had appliqués of crows perched on telegraph wire, or positioned as if carrying the pieces of silk trailing from the model's shoulders.
I can't wait to see what Theyskens comes up with for the next Rochas collection.