rural uttar pradesh and delhi

Comfortable private transport, unlike accommodation, is inexpensive in India, and so I hired a car with a driver for four days to explore the northern rural areas of Haryana and Uttar Pradesh states, and deliver me to my final stop in Delhi. Which brings me to considering the way people travel on the roads here… I was impressed by the ingenuity and grace of women riding sidesaddle on the backs of motorcycles with babies in their arms and a second child artfully folded between father and mother. It is no news that helmets and safety precautions are only the vaguest of suggestions for drivers of all vehicles. As I people watched from the backseat of a car which was itself diving in and out of traffic with wild abandon, there were many times I just closed my eyes. Motorized pedi cabs (tuk tuks) intended to hold two adults in the back regularly hold 6 to 8 while trucks tear down the potholed roads with 30 people perched high on top of the load. India has a crazed new love affair with the car, and has produced a number of very cheap ones, most recently Tata’s Nano, which sells for about $2K. In the country, there was still room on the roads, but in Delhi, as with other cities, the roads seemed choked past capacity already, with unbearably dense air pollution, and I wonder how this country will adapt to a car revolution.
I found myself surprisingly drawn to India’s northern countryside, with its vast, flat expanses of farmlands, village paths, and huge shady trees. Here is where I came across some of the sights I found most magical. Families of wild monkeys playing by a river, a working train of a dozen camels haughtily towing massive loads, a cattle drive of hundreds of miles (led by barefoot boys) taking over roads, snake handlers, and ingenious rail thin men who ran entire shops and tailoring businesses off lovingly customized bicycles.
Cities in India were a surprise for me because I usually find many things to love in urban settings and am less in tune with countrysides. This trip, it was reversed. In cities, I found the level of harassment as a woman on the street made it difficult to discover or enjoy the beautiful aspects, and the urban overcrowding, slums and pollution for me outweighed the aesthetic pleasures. In the country, I felt relieved with the presence of open clear sky, space for people, and quiet.
On the last day in Delhi, I went to visit Raj Ghat, the cremation site of Mahatma Gandhi, and spent my final hour at midnight watching the dessert wallahs ply their trade on the sidewalk. Eight hours later I flew to England and spent a gloriously peaceful two days in the quiet hills of Devon.
For more photos, please check my flickr page.


Anonymous said...

Hi there. I envy you very much. I would love to travel too. I'm a Malaysian. Ever been here?

Jules said...

Amazing. Thank you for this beautiful adventure.

laceybediz said...

Wow-- what an epic trip. India has been on my list for so long now-- I am really, really inspired by your words and pics-- I just might have to go sooner than later.

lovely, lovely pics!!!

lara said...

i wish i could go to the places youve been - these shots are amazing!
national geographic worthy :)

Miss Robyn said...

Bonjour La Femme,

Thank you for your note.

This post was absolutely beautiful. I've booked my trek for this region (specifically the rural areas North and East of New Delhi). Your photo spread and sentiments on the area just increased my excitement ten fold.

Keep in touch.

Wanderlusting said...

Thanks for being honest...I've always wanted to go to India but was worried about harrassment. So many other female travelers seem to pretend it doesn't exist or doesn't bother them. It really bothers me, maybe cuz I'm young and blonde, I don't know.

I'm glad you mentioned it - even though it wouldn't deter me from going, it's good to have a realistic account.

Jerry ASelah! said...

wow, the pics are beautiful. Hopefully I will have an opportunity to visit with India. I figured India would be a place where they harass tourists especially women. I think if you have a good guide, you too can have a most wonderful experience.

Torontostreetfashion.com said...

You create such magical nostalgia - so beautiful. Merci! R

Anonymous said...

did you get a chance to try a ride in one of the tuk tuks? i live in thailand and we have them here and they are quite fun...although..not THE safest form of transport. you should visit thailand sometime too, its a great place.

thetiniestspark said...

wonderful writing, my dear.... i'm so jalouse it's not even funny. india is my dream escape, and dammit i'm going to get there in the next year. i'm thinking of renting a beach house in goa and staying there for a month, i know someone who did that for a year and only spent 500 pounds, after all expenses. you in?? ;) xx

Marie-Laure said...

Looooooove your pics I'm back from India and it's an amazing country ! I would have loved to see the Mahal but 2 weeks in Inida sure ain't enough ... LOL

Anonymous said...

Love the first photo - the women and the trees ... lovely! Just like you!
Sonja A

Becky said...

I live in India and blog at http://beckyblab.com/.

You have a great blog.