fashion changes, style remains

For those who can't make it to Montreal to see the Yves Saint Laurent "Love" retrospective, here is a peek at the creations on display there until September 28 (photography is strictly forbidden, but luckily everything from fabric swatches to feather coats have been documented in the hefty exhibit program)...

"All my dresses originate with a gesture. A dress that does not reflect or does not make one think of a gesture is not right. Once the gesture in question has been found, then one can choose the colour, the final shape, the fabrics, but not before". - YSL

Cocktail dress, 1964. Made to order for Grace Kelly.

Daytime ensemble, 1962. Made to order for the Duchess of Windsor.

Wedding gown, 1988.

"The naked body of a woman, whom I have to dress without curbing the freedom of her natural movements... my profession is the loving dialogue of this naked woman with all the magic spells of the wrapping of my fabrics" - YSL

A beautifully cut back is my favourite feature in a dress. This design from 1970 exposes the back in the shape of a lyre, appearing through a window of lace mesh.

Cocktail dress, 1966. Skirt-suit, 1967. Made for Françoise Giroud.Silk coat with embroidered lips, 1971. For Marisa Berenson.

Evening gown with embroidered hearts, 1980.

"Belle de Jour" dress. Worn by Catherine Deneuve in the 1967 film.

"A woman is only attractive in pants if she wears them with all her femininity. Not like a George Sand. Pants are coquettish, an additional charm, not a sign of equality or enfranchisement. Liberty and equality are not achieved by wearing breeches- they are a state of mind". - YSL

Tuxedo (without jacket), 1999.

Evening ensemble, 1973. Made to order for Lauren Bacall, Betty Catroux, Catherine Deneuve and Françoise Giroud. Tuxedo, 1991.

Tuxedo, 1968.
"On each street corner in Marrakech, you encounter groups that are impressive in their intensity, their relief. Men and women, where pink, blue, green, and violet caftans mingle. These groups look as if they have been drawn and painted, that are reminiscent of sketches by Delacroix, and it is suprising to say that they are, in fact, merely an improvisation on life." - YSL

Evening ensemble, 1988. Made to order for Nan Kempner.

Evening ensembles, 1989.

Evening ensemble, 1991. In tribute to Leon Bakst.

"I am very alone. I exercise my imagination on the lands that I do not know. I hate traveling. For example, if I read a book about India, with photographs, or about Egypt, where I have never been, my imagination runs wild. That is how I take my most wonderful trips." - YSL

"Bambara" dress, 1967.

Cocktail ensemble, 1977. Toreador costume, 1979.

Evening gown, 1979. This reminds me of the showstopping pink and black dress Anjelica Huston wore in Prizzi's Honour.

Day ensemble, 2000.

Ensembles from the Russian collection, 1976.

Evening gowns, 1986 and 1991.

"Red is the basis for makeup, it is the lips, the nails. Red is a noble colour, a colour of precious stones - the ruby - and it is a dangerous colour; sometimes you have to play with danger. Red is religious, and it is blood, and it is royal, it is phedra, and a multitude of heroines. Red light and red combat, red is combat between life and death." - YSL

Evening gown, 1987. Geometric patterned dresses, 1969 and 1979.
Mondrian cocktail dresses, 1965 and 1966.

Bust and waist sculpture gowns, 1969.Bridal gown, 1970.
Evening gown, 1988. In tribute to Georges Braque.
Evening ensembles, 1980. In tribute to Apollinaire and Aragon.

Evening gowns, 1998 and 2001.

Animal themed evening ensembles, 1964 and 1990.

Laetitia's bridal "gown", 1999.

Storage vaults I'd like to get lost in for a while...

For more photos, and better resolution, please click here.